NEXT WEEKEND YOU CAN BE AT ... AMBIKA KALNA

Every edifice in Ambika Kalna, or Kalna as it is popularly known, oozes history. The peerless architecture of the temples of this town and their history leave few untouched. The grandeur of the terracotta structures is comparable to those of Bishnupur.The two places are, in fact, inextricably linked. In 1806, the Bishnupur royal estate was purchased by the king of Burdwan, who then settled in Kalna. Ever since, the magic of terracotta has enriched both places.

The first reference to Ambika Kalna is found in a 6th century text named Kubjika Tantra. Some historians are of the opinion that during the Gupta era, the place was part of the famous Tamralipta port. In 1702, Aurangazeb appointed Raja Jagatram as the administrator of Kalna, which reached an advanced stage of development under his son Kirtichandra, who took over in 1729.Though their roots were in Punjab, the royal family of Burdwan contributed immensely to the glory of ancient Bengal. The royals were keen patrons of the arts and several temples of burnt clay were constructed during their reign.

In 1757, Tilokchand, then raja of Burdwan, refused to help Lord Clive against Siraj-ud-Daullah. Tilokchand was later vanquished by the British in 1760 and he turned to religion for solace. His change of heart coincided with the golden period of temple architecture in Kalna. Between 1752 and 1766, seven large and 12 small temples were built in Burdwan.The most eye-catching of the Kalna landmarks is a set of 108 Shiva temples within a single complex. Maharaja Tejachandra sponsored the temples, completed in 1809. The project celebrated the transfer of ownership of the Bishnupur royal estate.

The temples are divided into two rows. The first row has 64 temples, out of which 32 have white and 32 black Shiva lingas. The other row consists of the rest of the temples, of which two are empty. All the constructions are in the typical aatchala style.Across the complex is the main attraction of Kalna, the Pratapaditya temple. Prince Pratapaditya died in 1821. The temple was constructed in his memory in 1849 by his first wife Priya Kumari.

The architectural style deviates from the Bengal school and is akin to Rekhadeul, characteristic of the Orissa school. Designed by Ramhori Mistry, the temple is one of the best terracotta structures in Bengal. The figures on its walls depict the life of Krishna, Ravana?s Durga puja, Vaishnavites and even the Europeans. Near Pratapaditya temple is another wonder ? the majestic 60-ft-tall Krishnachandra temple. Built by Raja Tilokchand in 1752, the 25 towers of the structure are quite unique.

This temple, too, has been constructed in the aatchala style with fabulous terracotta sculptures on the walls. Episodes of Ramayana and Mahabharata, hunting scenes, childbirth and erotica are carved to perfection. The dilapidated royal palace and the rashmancha are in the same complex. A two-minute walk away is the Lalaji temple, also with 25 towers. Rajmata Brajokishori built this in 1739, after her return from Vrindavan. Garuda, the mount of Vishnu, is worshiped here.

Another landmark that will capture your attention is the Ananta Basudeva temple. Raja Tilokchand's pet project was built in 1754 in the double aatchala style. Unfortunately, only a few of its terracotta sculptures remain. The temple was renovated by the Birlas in 1964.Then there is the Sidhesheswari temple, the oldest in Kalna. The ekchala construction has 14 steps leading up to it, the first five signifying the tantrik cult, the next nine indicating the Nabagraha. Besides, there are two small Shiva temples. The terracotta works on the panels of Gopalbari mandir are also worth a visit.

In 1754, Indrakumari, the queen of Burdwan, had established two Shiva temples in Jagannathbari. Both are 15-ft tall with a 5-ft-high foundation. If you are interested in terracotta sculpture, don't give these temples a miss. Episodes from Hindu mythology and the epics are etched in fine detail on both. Intricate alponas are also carved in terracotta on the temple premises. Noi-Gambuz masjid with its nine towers is yet another spot that deserves tourist attention.

A tour of Ambika Kalna can be concluded in a day if one starts early in the morning.

Going:|
Local trains are available from Howrah station. The journey takes around two-and-a-half hours

Staying:
The PWD guest house can be booked from Calcutta. Good food is available there. Cycle-rickshaws are available to most of the tourist spots. Photography is allowed. There is a dearth of good restaurants. So carry your food and water


This article was published on 14th August, 2005 in The Telegraph

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TERRACOTTA GRANDEUR TO MATCH THE BEST

Ambika Kalna, popularly known as Kalna, is a place which leaves on one untouched by its magical at traction of historical background and peerless architecture. Kalna's terracotta grandeur is no less than Bishnupur's world famous temples. The royal estate of Bishnupur was purchased in 1806 by the royal family of Burdwan, who had their base at Kalna. Every since, both the places had the privilege of becoming enriched by the magic of terracotta.

The zamindars of Burdwan were religious and patrons of fine arts. Although their root was in Punjab they became part of Bengal's pristine glory. During 1752 to 1766, seven big and 12 small temples were built there. Even today, those exotic piece of art make us flabbergasted. The first thing that attracts you is a set of 108 Shiva temples in a single complex.

Just opposite of this complex is the main attraction of Kalna, Pratapaditya temple Built in 1849, it stands as one of the best terracotta temples in Bengal.

Opposite Pratapaditya temple is the majestic 60-feet high and 25-tower terracotta structure named Krishnachandra temple. The dilapidated palace of royal family and Rash Mancha are situated in the same complex.

Another temple that draws attention is Ananta Basudeva temple. This was renovated by the Birla family in 1964. Near the Ananta Basudeva is perhaps the oldest temple of Kalna, the Sidhesheswari temple, built in ekchala style. The first five steps to the temple indicate tantric cult while next nine steps indicate Nabagraha cult. Gopalbari is another temple with 25 towers. This temple contains exotic terracotta crafts on its wall and panel.

How To Go
Take any local train from Howrah early in the morning and you will reach Ambika Kalna in two-and-a-half hours. Take a cycle-rickshow to visit all the places. Photography is allowed at the temples. There is no good restaurant in Kalna. So carry dry food and water from home. PWD guesthouse can be booked from Calcutta.

This article was published on 13th May, 2003 in The Hindustan Times

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LOST IN THE PAGES OF HISTORY

Built in 1754 by Indrakumari Maharani of Burdwan, Ambika Kalna's Jagannathbari Shiva temples are built in typical Aatchala style of Bengal school. Standing on the bank of the Ganga , these pieces of architecture are full of excellent curves of terracotta with stories of Hindu mythology and epics crafted in an excellent way. However, history lies in tatters here as the temples are in a dilapidated state. The ASI has not taken any steps to restore the structures.

This article was published on 3rd August, 2003 in The Asian Age

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CROWN TOWN OF TEMPLES
Ambika Kalna popularly known as Kalna, strikes one with its architectural marvels steeped in history.

A varied history has gifted the place with architectural landmarks that leave the eyes awestruck with their artistic resplendence.

Ambika Kalna's terracotta grandeur stands as tall as Bishnupur's world famous temples. The royal estate of Bishnupur was purchased in 1806 by the royal family of Burdwan which had its base at Kalna. The magic of terracotta at both the places owes its presence to their lineage.

The first reference to Ambika Kalna is found in a 6th Century text¬ –¬ Kubjika Tantra. Historian Canninghum said that the place was once a part of the famous Tamralipta port of Bengal during the Gupta era. In 1702, Aurangzeb appointed Raja Jagatram as the administrator of Kalna. The place started developing during the rule of his son Kirtichandra from 1729.

Zamindars of Burdwan were religious and patronized fine arts. Although their roots were in Punjab, et they became a part of Bengal's glorious heritage.

The golden period of Kalna's temple architecture began in 1760 after King of Burdwan Tilokchand refused to help Lord Clive against Siraj-ud-Daulah in 1757. Tilokchand was vanquished by Captain Watts in 1760 and turned to spiritualism.

Thus started the ‘temple rennaisence' of Kalna. From 1752 to 1766, seven big and 12 small temples which are exotic pieces of art were built here.

The first thing that attracts you in Kalna is a set of 108 Shiva temples inside a single complex. Rare in India, this amazing set to temples were built in typical Aaatachala style by Maharaja Tejachandra in 1809 to celebrate the ownership of Bishnupur's royal estate.

This article was published on 15th February 2004 in The Asian Age

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